Days 6 (Hverfjall,  Vindbelgiarfjall), 7 (Hraunfossar / Barnafoss) & going home.

I didn’t have time in the last 2 days to update, as we were doing a lot of driving. We knew that last two days will be tough. It’s a long distance from the north back to Reykjavik.  We also wanted stop and places and explore as well as stay up late one night and hunt for the northern lights. But from the beginning…

The night as Lake Myvatn was cold. I actually slept real well though. Upon waking up I climbed the hill behind us. The view from the site is really cool. It it overrlooks the village and the lake. You can see our car and tents in the foreground. 

The campsite had a little indoors  kitchen (well, more like some benches with tables, 4 gas cookers and an electric  kettle) – all of it made a nice change and we were fed with our standard combo of boild eggs and frankfurters pretty quickly.

The best part of the morning was that the weather forecast was very good. We were in for double digits temperature (low teens were goos enough for me) and clear sky. This called for some little hiking . We quickly identified couple of small (up to 1-2h walk) peaks in the area  and moved on. 

First target was hust around the corner – Hverfjall looks like an extinct volcano crater. It’s really cool looking. There is a path up on one side and you get to walk in a circle around the rim. The whole thing takes around an hour. Views were amazing and clear sky and full sun added to the experience.

From there, some 7km west, past the lake,  we stopped by another hill 500ish m tall Vindbelgiarfjall. This was definetly more challanging as the climb is steep  (nothing dramatic though, reasonably fot person  will go up in some 45mins)  steep and diverse. 

The biggest challange are lake flies  (we call them midges) that just swarms around you as soon as you get out of the car. This is also true for the entire region and probably main reason why picked the campsite up the hill (rather the more obvious lakeside one).

The hike  starts with a path from the car park, then you go up through different types of vegetations (follow trail markers) and the rocky parts (moonlike surface) untill you reach grassy top for a rewarding views of the entire region.

You come back the same way and it shouldn’t take more than 2hours round trip. 

It was definetly one of the best ways yet, mainly due to the weather. It made all the difference.

From there we wantes to so as much driving west (but still staying on the north part of the country) so we could try hunt for the northern lights. 

We briefly stopped at Goðafoss (well it was a full on hour including a shopping spree I wasnt told about!). 

The forecast for the north was very favourable, showing clear skies and solid 5 in 9 points scale. This is truly rare for that early in a year (the aurora season doesnt properly  start until October).

After driving 200km west (mind you that its on single lane road with 90km/h limit so I takes bearly 3h) and  some deliberations regarding campsite to stay ( we visited 2) we settles on the one in Blonduos. It’s  kind of near the road so noise is an issue, but if you go way at the back there is a nice waterfall that you can pitch by, and it will kill the road noise.

We met there couple of Americans from Charlotte  (go Bobcats!) and North Carolina who were on their way to Spain (wow airlines allow up to 7 days layover. Just enough time for a quick trip around Iceland). They run out of gas for their stove mid cooking, so I let them use my Kelly Kettle. Solid fuel FTW!!! There will be a separate post later regarding all the gear we used.

At 11pm we geared up with more layets and drove 5mins out of the town for dark and clear skies.

It took 90 mins wait, but it finally showed up. Aurora was wa really faint and you had to adjust eyesight for the  darkness to see anything but it was there. It only was properly seen when I took them long exposure shots with Patrycja’s 50mm (Ill upload them once we get them of the camera).

Generally spekaing what you see on the photos of the northern lights is not what your eyes see.

Then following morning we didnt get up untill well after 9. The weather gor back to normal Icelanding self – overcast and cold. The plan was simple – drive to Reykjavik witg a little detour stopover at Hnarffossar and Barnafoss. 

GPS predicted solid 3.5h on the road so we topped up the fuel and moved on. It is generally a good idea to top up fuel everytime you got a chance as petrol stations aren’t that common and they very often are unattended and automated.

We made it a rule to start looking around when the fuel gauge would show 1/2 full. It worked great. (and no, you won’t be ‘fine’ you every Irish person I know;)

The two just mentioned waterfalls are quite close to the capital and right next to each other but suffer from what I call ‘the coach syndrome’. Buses with tones of tourists stop by on regular intervals polluting the sights with masses of people taking photos with their ipads (its still a thing).

The place has  a nice back story. The forst one is relatively new – supposedly formed around 800 AD and just a very long stretch of water pouring of cold lava field .
Barnafoss (meanig Children’s Falls) story is below. Its rather tragic but i guess its part of life…

Before going  to the guest house in Keflavik  (small town outisde of Reykjavik that hosts the InternationalAirport) where we were meant to spend the last night before departure (6.20am flight) we made a brief stop at the capital city in search for some souvenirs and dinner. We settled for Italian place serving icelanding food cooked italian way. It was reasonably priced (tuna stake dish on rice for some 20 euro) and very delicious.

I got to give a shoutout to our hosts at Ace guesthouse. Their place (houses actually, we got nice 2 bed brand new house for ourselves) was spotlles. It had big bathroom and we could use commu al kitchen in their main house (we didnt though). 

They even let us extend the car rental (for a very small fee) to the next morning and just park it at the airports long term car park. 

They were vey friendly family run business  and priced their sevices at reasonable rates. I highly recommend if you are looking for airport side accomodation (they have couple of houses 5mins from the airport)  and car rental  services (around 40 cars to choose from, inclusing  small converted campervans, 4x4s big and small as well as regular compacts.

Im writting  most of it waiting for our luggage at dublin airport; someone at DAA fcked up today. First they meased up queues at imigration sending couple hundred USA passangers to Eu booths and the reversing them and mixxing with EU folk causing havok. 

Now the luggage belt is clogged witv bags from Milan and Copenhagen (without Reykjavik displayed on it, but yet it had one of hour bags). 

Its after 12 now. The flight was 2h delayed, it took another 2 in air.  Now we wasted  over an hour at this point waiting to get out to the car park…. Bags 1 of 3 retrieved…

Day 5  – 65 Degrees North, Detifoss, Hverir and Lake Myvatn

We are at the north now. Deep North.It’s considerably colder here. I mean its proper “brace yourselves, winter is comming cold”. We are about 1 deg south of the arctic circle which in 2016 runs 66°33′46.3″ north of the equator. Daytime temp is below 10c. Nightime falls to mere 2C. In August. Some of our group are less than impressed by that fact. Not only because at these temps Nutella is rock solid. ;)

Anyway we started the day with a trip to …the moon. Kind of. Landscape suggested it was a different world altogether. Some 30km of muddy, potholed gravel road took us to the Europe’s most powerfull waterfall – Detifoss.

It is absolutely worth the long drive. The sights are unreal. The volume of water falling is just huge. It does pay off once again to have 4 wheel drive car (although we ve seen people driving up with small compact cars, which wouldnt have been insured on this kind of road though).

From there we drove further west (well after getting back those 30km to the main road) to the amazing area of Hevrir.

It’s a complex of muddy pools and whistle like craters shooting steam. 

Even though it’s in the same region as the massive fall of Detifoss, the landscape is dramaticy different. It truly looks like surface of the Mars there.

There is 400m tall hill, Hverir (seen above) with a steep trail that leads to the top, and then around it back to the carpark, for even better views. It  makes for nice 1h walk. (can be very slipper after rain though). As I said, views from the top are breathtaking. 

From there its only stone’s throw to one of the best hot springs in the country – Myvatn Nature Baths

People I spoke to say  that if you are in the north you have to visit (and we have). It’s 10 times less busy (there was still some 200 people on the premises.I can only imagine the volumes Blue Lagoon are handling at once) and doesnt have the feel of crowded, commercial overrun tourists attraction.

We spent some 2.5 hours there. Money well spent (some 30euro per person).

It was getting late so we quickly drove of to our camp for the night by the lake Myvatn. Another great place. Good facilities with gas provided kitchenette. I gave the good old Kelly Kettle a break and we cooked on gas. 

Time to go to bed. Tomorrow we are moving west some 200km, hoping to do some nice short walks in between. The forecast looks decent. There are even some predictions for northern lights. We shall see…

Day 4 . Destination  north east.

It was a really long day… mostly disappointing due to a bad weather. Imagine winter in Donegal, then  multiply by 5. That’s your average Icelandic late August summer day. Oh well…

We got up fairly early hoping to complete one of the hiking trails around the glacier, but it was really raining bad… Forecast had it to keep like that until midday and with min 5h driving ahead of us we simply could not afford waiting. That’s the real downtime on trying to complete the ring road in under a week. Reality is that any of the places we spent a night at deserves deeper, at least couple nights exploration.

We headed east then towards the iceberg lagoon knowing that we are really leaving behind great place. We did briefly stopped few km down the road and followed a dirt road for 2km, then jump over some hills to the edge of the glacier to see it up close, but it was nothing comparing to a proper hike.

The rain followed us but it didn’t stop us from jumping out of the car one more time at the place walk where the ice cap meets the water. 

As with everything here picture can’t do justice to the sights… Just got your see it for yourself. 

We kept driving east and the the  road would start taking us north by the magnificent east fjords. I’ve swapped driving with Monika and took a uncontrolled powernap on the back seat.

It was still raining,  which actually added to the views. Huge rock formations, countless waterfalls. The girls got all the photos, but again no photos can show the beauty of the scenery.

 We got off route 1 and picked the coastal road, in search for some puffins (funny looking birds with big orange beaks). There are colonies in few areas were passing by, but no luck… We did stop in some villages (and by one lighthouse) and found an old french cemetery. A burial place of the original french seaman founders of this patrticular village with yet another unpronounceable name (although all official street names at this place  were written both in French and Iclenadic.

It was definetly one of those places where tourist don’t go. And it makes it so much more special.

By that point we are so far away from Reykjavik that say tour buses dont come here anyway. And its a good thing.

We can also definetly see it by the count of campers in the local campsite. The place we are staying at tonight, Fellabær hosta 1 other tent and 1 campervan, while yesterdays site was a home to couple hundred. 

Its a really nice place as well, clean facilities, good view. Last minute find actually  (the original site was in the midle of town, this has much more natural vibe).

Tomorrow direction will be west, but the exact  route is being debated right now by the bottle of captain Morgan we picked up at duty free at Dublin airport. :)

Day 3 continued. Crashed plane, green canyon, old farmhouse and another glacier.

First of all thanks  to all my followers for actually reading these words. It’s the only thing that motivates me to keep going with the updates. 

After we were ‘done’ with the glacier (in reality one is simply not “done” with these magnificent wonders of nature ;)) we  frove few km east on route 1 in search for old  crashed abandoned plane resting on the black beach. The place is not difficult to find. Just drive for few km and park by the side of the road where other 40 cars stop… 

the place is absolutely overrun  you tourists. now u can’t just drive to the beach (it’s on private land really) but the 4km walk doesn’t scare anyone away (at least not when it’s  not raining).

It’s a nice and easy stroll in straight-line.  Can’t really get lost.

you are rewarded with a sight of an US navy plane wreck that run out of fuel and land crashed there in 1973. Apparently the crew survived… 

It’s impossible to take a photo without tourists in the frame… oh well. It’s the price of modern sight seeing. People everywhere.

Our next stop was the Green Canyon some 70 km further east. It’s a bit off the main road (2km) and having invested in 4wd finally pays off as the road is just a narrow gravel path. 

The canyon starts pretty much by the car park and the walk is short but totally worth it, even in rain. 

The path is well secured with some clear view points along the way.

Next stop was supposed to be the camp site for the night some further 70km east. It was difficult not to stop along the way though for some random wow moments.

One of these random places definitely worth mentioning was an old farm we stopped by and actually explored.

The complex is situated of the main road at the Base of some nice rocks and a waterfall. it consists of some older turf houses, including what looks like a chapel, some sheds and more modern (but still pretty old main building). The picture in the window presents 2 of the last farmers who lived there (looks like 2 brothers, the older  passed away in 2010). 

While most of the buildings weren’t locked  we respected privacy of this private land and didn’t open any doors – I looked inside through the cracks (between the door and the roof) into one of these sheds and it looks like it had a secret treasure:

I wonder what  kind of machine is that but by the look of the sticker it is at least 30 years old. I’ll definitely will do some research on the history of this place on our return home.

Our final destination for the day was getting closer, but the weather totally broke. We were driving through barren vcanic like landscape and if it was not for the GPS I’d think we are on the moon…

The single lane bridges added to intensity of the journey. Normally you are supposed to see the other side before embarking on one, but in these poor conditions it want always the case.

So there we were. it was  early 8pm and we pulled over at the Skaftafell campsite by the Base of the biggest Icelandic glacier with another unpronounceable name.  

I’m pretty tired now and ready to go to bed. Tomorrow we’ll go for a quick area exploration and will push through another couple hundred km.

Day 3. At the glacier and going further east.

Woke up early in the morning. Earlier than we planned. Loud Spanish speaking folk in the tent next to ours made sure nobody overslept…

I can’t stress enough how awesome the sight of 62m waterfall is. The power that comes with it is just breathtaking.

We were very fast to cook breakfast pack up and move on to explore the area. There is a neat path on the east side of the fall. Easy steps lead to the top of the waterfall, and the entire trails is long enough for a 2 day trek (for those who have time to explore deeper). 

We only spent an hour or so and moved on eastward towards the glacier. There is no way I could pronounce or spell it’s name,  so here is a handy name plate with some details of this amazing place.

The road leading to the parking is all nice and paved. The hiking path itself goes for some 700 or so meters. 

Obviously we don’t have our own  gear to continue on, but there are tour operators (even on site) that’d be more than happy to lead you deeper into ice. It’s rather expensive (13k isk/ 100euro per person for 3h walk) but I see the appeal for people who never experienced ice adventure.

Right now we are still the base of the glacier enjoying coffee, the views and free wifi. 

Moving on now…

First 2 days in Iceland. Reykjavik.  Golden circle and moving east.

I finally got some time to write couple of words about our little trip to even further north than what my friend Kieran considers too far north.

This free time is mainly due to break in the weather. It’s raining cat and dogs… Irish style. I’m currently in a tent under a waterfall in amazing place called Skaftafell … well look for yourself. 

Anyway, the 4 of us, Monika, Patka, Marzena and I arrived yesterday. 

I arranged the car rental through Ace Guesthouse, place  we’ll be staying at on our last night (it’s a family run business, B&B and car rental located close to the airport.  super handy if u leave very early  – just like us 6.15am on the 31st of August).

All the normal paperwork went fine and we ended up with a very roomy 4×4 Honda CRV. it’s important to get a 4 wheel drive if u think you’ll be getting off the beaten track. 2wd are often not allowed on gravel roads and insurance won’t cover any damages. Anyway extra cost is usefully if 4 people are going anyway camping for a week… extra room is needed. 

We spent the first night at the campsite in Reykjavik . and oh my oh my. it’s the biggest campaign palce I’ve ever been to. you could only compare it to a permanent festival site. hundreds of tents everywhere. some seems to be permanently fixed.

We quickly pitched and went about exploring the town. it’s a good 30 mins walk. I recommend hiring bikes. it would make for  better experience in a good weather. The city itself… well it’s a city. Building, statues, harbour.. and tourists everywhere.  I’ll upload some pics when I’ll be on my laptop. on return we cooked some quick food and went to tents. 

The next day (today) we had snorkeling booked at silfra. one of this must do things while u are here. initially I was contemplating between scuba and snorkeling and I’m glad we picked latter. visibility was amazing (you could see for 30+m) and the hassle of staying neutrally buoyant (I never done drysuit) in 2C fresh water (as well as cost of some 300euro for 40min dive)  made snorkeling experience actually pleasant.  

The whole thing took just under 2h and I I think it’s a good thing to do but only if you are into underwater stuff. 

From there we moved a bit more east towards Geysir (a group of geysers) and Gullfos (pretty cool 30m waterfall). both atractions are close to each other and can make a nice day trip even if you are based in the capital.  be aware thought tons of tourists everywhere. 

 

We are moving counter clock wise through the ring road so to make it back on track we had to travel south now.

it took around 2h to get to the place I’m writing from now (mentioned at the beginning of the post). 

By the way the mobile coverage is amazing I  this country. we r in the middle of nowhere and I get good signal with nice data connection  (I bought local.simcard with 1gb allowance. highly recommended- it’s only around 15euro).

Tomorrow we’ll explore this area and move more east. I’ll update probably every 2 days. 

Fair Head and other Northern Adventures.

    It finally happened. I managed to convince people (well, it took zero convincing this time, the team was more motivated than I) and climb in Fair Head. It was my (and Tereza’s) first ever trip there – while for Jirka it was a return after 8 years of absence.

So there we were, yet again on epic adventure trail.  We left on Friday and for a change spent a night at a with a roof over our head(rather than camping) in Ballymena’s Slemish Barn. It’s actually a really nice place at very reasonable price point (15GBP for a bed in a dorm room).
They have very good facilities, with basic breakfast provided (which is a nice touch – we didn’t expected it). The owner (Michael) is a very nice guy, and will accept Euro if you ask nicely.
The place is situated strategically close to Fair Head (40min drive via the coast road, I think it’d be faster via the other route), and allows for nice & early start in the morning. Obviously camping at the farm on Fri was also an option, but sometimes it’s nice to treat yourself to a warm bed.

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And that’s what we’ve done. Got up ‘early’ on Sat &  we were at Sean’s farm before 9, where we also bumped into Ambrose and his magic van.

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We quickly moved towards the crag (it’s a 15 min walk through the farm, in fantastic setting) – as the forecast predicted rain at 1pm.

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By 10am we were racked up at the bottom of our first victim, 2 pitch classic on Ballycastle Descent Gully East-  Girona *** VS 5a (although the book we have says 4c, 4c) – I lead the first (apparently harder one), Jirka flew the second one.

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Below – Jirka on Pitch 2
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Jirka & I below.

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Few drops of rain didn’t discourage us at all and we made our way to The Prow to find our next targets.

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Not being over-enthusiastic about our ability to lead these long ‘hard for the grades’ routes we’ve settled on another classic, The Black Thief VS 4b .

 

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It was such  a nice route to lead. Nearly 30m of fantastic bridging and jamming. Gear everywhere, fantastic views – Fair Head at it’s finest!
I lead it, and then Tereza (who’s relatively new to the sport) – lead it on my pre-placed gear. She actually flew it, without looking back. I’d say – teach the girl how to place gear and she’d be leading HVS on her own  in no time!

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Jirka collected the gear after us, we abseiled and sent him for what turned out to be the last route of the day – The Fence, VS 4c.

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He enjoyed every single move of this 24m high route. Tereza cleaned the gear 2nd and  I went last to meet their smiling faces at the top of the wall.


We cleaned up and headed back to the farm to make some food and relax.
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Once we pitch the tents and setup my precious Kelly Kettle, we got a nice surprise from Sean, the landowner who brought fresh supply of fire wood – for a nice pit-fire.

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It was very nice of him. We had a friendly chat about the history of his land (he owns over 400 acres) and climbing in general in the area. He doesn’t climb himself but is very friendly and welcoming to all climbers – big (like his most recent famous guest – Alex Honnold) – and small – like us.

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We sat by the fire and enjoyed the bottle of 12 year old anCnoc, talking about future plans, climbing, big bulls, small rabbits and other less important things.

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The morning welcomed us with windy weather, sore hands and loud children (well these, from the tent nearby, were crying all night, so there wasn’t much sleep)…
Since it was Jirka’s last days in the country, we’ve decided to give up climbing for the day,  and explore local touristy spots.20160807_083151


We stopped by in Ballycastle, to look at Fair Head from distance.

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And the move further west. The hanging bridge and Giant’s Causeway are ok, but it’s nothing special after day like we had the day before. Although the massive waves made quite the impression.


Bushmills Distillery at the other hand it’s a different story.

Both of us being admirers of good whiskey couldn’t miss the chance to visit that place (it’s been there since 1608!).

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We completed very interesting 40min tour around the factory (it’s operational 24/7, so there are strict no-photography rules). You get to walk (with a guide) around the production line, as he explains how this fine drink is made. At the end you get to exchange your ticket for a taster of their produce. Jirka actually ended up with 5 shots (since some of our visiting group didn’t drink whiskey, others were driving), while I picked up a bottle of their 12year old single malt reserve (available only at their factory shop, nowhere else!).

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That concluded our short outing to The North. Drive back to Dublin was uneventful. It’s actually quite straight forward – motorway all the way down…

I hope we’ll be able to squeeze in one more trip before Jirka returns home…

Entire album with some more descriptions is available here.